I always wanted to visit Matera, and when it finally happened, my expectations were high. The town is claimed to be the 3rd oldest urban settlement in the world still existing, and its believed to be inhabited for 3 millennia – can you imagine?. It started as cave living, and the Sassi, ancient town of Matera we can see now, has grown on top of cave homes ones occupied by prehistoric troglodyte. Well, it is extremely brief glance to background of Matera, and I’m not here to repeat what you can find all over the internet.
At some point Matera was called “the shame of Italy”: people were living in poverty, and their housing was way below any modern standard. In 50th of the last century most of inhabitants were relocated from historical Sassi to new developments, and for some time Sassi was a city of ghosts. Before it became tourist attraction and Unesco heritage treasure we can enjoy nowadays.
There are still many buildings which are rather ruins, but town of Matera developed a lot thanks to multiple international tourists amazed by uniqueness of the place and being happy to stay in caves which 50-70 years ago were inhabited by those who had no choice, but now transformed to stylish hotel accommodation.
My feeling of Matera was rather mixed. I’ve seen lots of old Italian towns through my intense travel of the country, and each had its own soul whispering to mine. The whisper of Matera’ soul was kind of sad even fascinating. Its way in recent history from “shame of Italy” to UNESCO heritage site must have lots of drama in it, and I could not help but feel the gap in times (well, this gap is a blink, indeed, comparing with three millennia of uninterrupted history) when Sassi was abandoned by its inhabitants. Rejuvenation came, and city with such tremendous history deserves it through and through, but few decades of being city of ghosts is still present even now replaced with new life.
What I should say… Matera is worth a visit for sure. It can be side trip from Puglia or Amalfi Coast, or stop on the way from one to another. It has few lovely hotels to stay and plenty of picturesque hiking itineraries, urban or natural.
Hotel Sextantio, albergo diffuso, is for those who is looking for true cave-living experience. Its rooms are way more comfortable than those in which Matera inhabitants were living few decades ago, but they are caves, so be prepared for very little day light. Rustic but charming.
Being a sun lover, I’m feel a bit trapped when in cave room. If you are the same type, you may think of Hotel Sant’Angelo which has options of more sun-lit accommodation, also design is less rustic, and there is plenty of outdoor space with breathtaking views of Matera.
I’m at your disposal to assist with accommodation and to create your itinerary including fascinating city of Matera.
