Palermo, Sicily. Puppet theatre or Opera dei pupi. Teatro Argento. Opera dei pupi is one of those beloved Sicilian traditional arts which are still present thanks to enthusiasts, and skills are passed from generation to generation with solicitude and care. Today Opera dei pupi is part of UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and you will see why it was playing significant role in social life of many generations.
Puppet theatres became popular in Southern Italy, especially in Sicily, in early 1800th. Such theatres were way more than just theatres. First and the most obvious, they were early days prototype of TV series, and everyone was waiting anxiously for the next episode to arrive, exactly the same as it happens nowadays (human nature didn’t change much since then).
If you recollect that most of population was illiterate then, you will see that the role of Opera dei pupi was much broader than just entertainment. For those who could not write and read (and between simple people of Southern Italy it was quite normal up to mid 20th century), puppet theatre was the way to learn the history, to memorize and to pass knowledge of events happened in past and happening in present, and somehow it was even replacement of newspapers: puparo (puppeteer), would artfully announce topical news through the play, and spectators would get the news interpreted in the form which they could easily understand and pass to others.
The main characters of original Opera dei papi were based on epic-chivalric literature of medieval origin freely modified in Renaissance times: paladins, Saracens, kings, fair ladies, later some protagonists by Shakespeare and more modern personages.
Puppets were equipped with a wooden frame and provided with real armour, richly decorated and chiseled, or skilfully made dress. Puppet making requires serious craftsmanship and meticulous knowledge, passed through generations and often involving whole family. Each place – Palermo, Catania, Naples – has its own school of puppet-making and puppet-moving. Since I was learning about Opera dei pupi in one of the oldest theatres of Palermo, Teatro Argento (the name comes from the last name of the family still running the business, 6th generation) there were lots of larks referring to puppets from Catania which are bulkier than those from Palermo, and have fixed limbs which makes them less lively.
The stories of Signor Argento, the Teatro Argento owner and puparo in few generations, were fascinating, the same as his tiny theatre filled with treasured hand made puppets, some are more than hundred years old. Meeting such character, totally dedicated to incredible family tradition, and fuelled by unconditional love to his origins, was a treat. You know this irresistible sort of humour sense, a bit sarcastic, when funny things are said with serious face, do you?
The only bitter part of it is that young generation mostly find puparo and puppet-maker profession not so attractive. One day this incredible craftsmanship can be lost. But so far so good. Signor Argento and his family keep it going, and tiny Theatro Argento is full every day.
Feel free to contact me if you plan to explore Sicily. I’m here to assist with fascinating itinerary.
