If you are not first timer is Venice, you may know that Piazza San Marco, doesn’t matter how stunning it is, is not only place to be. And well, considering how busy and touristy Venice can get during the season, you may want to sneak off the beaten track. Not far – we are speaking about 20 min walking away from pedestrian traffic, turmoil and confusion, just a bit deeper to another Venice – authentic, slow-passing, not postcard perfect but truly charming and filled with real Venetian character.
Cannaregio sestiere is one of Venetian districts which is just starting its way to international luxury travel market, for good or for bad, and you still have your chance to explore it as it is. Cannaregio is still not the place where Instagram photos of every corner are taken 10,000 times per minute – you can walk it, you can feel it, you can smell and taste it without being smashed.
That’s not Venice where you line up for gelato mentioned in popular blog, squeeze your way through lemming-looking group of 50, or queue for crossing the bridge. Just breathe, absorb, and feel as local as you can. And oh… enjoy!
Authentic history of Cannaregio has naturally grown through modern life style of the place and unmistakably recognized in its layout, architecture, the way they call things there. Little squares of Cannaregio called “campi” or “campelli” (“campo” = “field”) – these spots ones were used to grow vegetables.
The Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto contains the tomb of Tintoretto and several of his works, and there is no line up to see it!
Cannaregio is also spot of Jewish history. The first ghetto ever, nowadays is a cluster of art shops and galleries, still true to its origins of 1516.
Fondamenta della Misericordia (“fondamenta” = “sidewalk along the canal”) is lined with countless bacari – small bars where cicchetti, small Venetian-style appetizers accompanied by an ombra (glass of wine), are served any time of the day but especially for aperitivo time. That is where you mingle with local Venetian crowd. Tourists are still spare, and food is to please those who know and appreciate. Also you don’t overpay – this is for locals and those in the know.
Luxury hotels are coming to this area, and I found one which is really special, boutique, and one of a kind: Hotel Heureka. I’ll be honest, I was not staying there, just visiting during my last short stay in Venice on the way home from Dolomites. But I really wanted to see Heureka since Cannaregio is one of my favourite areas of the city, and I looked for decent option for my seasoned clients to stay there. Truly, I didn’t regret I made my way there. I was charmed indeed. You will be too if you like boutique hotels – small, non-pretentious, stylish, design oriented, yet warm, hospitable, home away from home felt.
Big thing: I started to take photos in the lobby even before I was greeted by the staff. Just because there were so many design details I loved from the first sight. Paolo, Director of Sales with whom I had appointment for site inspection, happened to be busy with guests (guests first!), but I was greeted and taken care of by chief bartender, and it was hearty and genuine welcome to feel and to enjoy the place.
I was offered a glass of water right away (oh well, the day was hot!), then a drink of my choice, unlimited friendly chat, private visit to the kitchen, and whatever else would make me comfortable and entertained while I was waiting for Paolo. Hotel can be beautiful or even very beautiful, but it is just an accommodation unite without people working there. Only people can make it home away from home, and Heureka has it right. I have so much experience living and visiting through tons of luxury hotels, I can tell how my clients would feel from my first step in. Well, probably from my second. 🙂
While waiting, I was happy to explore and enjoy (glass of wine in hand) hidden garden of Heureka. This is truly a rare thing in historical center of Venice to appreciate. Imagine relaxing in this secluded retreat with glass of spritz or prosecco after hectic day of exploring Venice. Life is good, Venetian style!
After friendly chat with Paolo, we proceeded for site inspection. And well, my architecture master degree background was pleased through and through.
It is exactly what you call boutique property. Nothing trivial or boring, but nothing too funky. Applauds for good taste and harmonious approach. During the restoration, the history and traditions of Venice were carefully preserved, and are now enhanced by the modern design of the selected furnishings and fabrics. Every detail is taken right. In Italian, I would simply say “bravo”.
At the end of this review, I should mention couple of things. First, the location of the property. It is the easiest to get to/from airport by water taxi. It is the easiest to get from Santa Lucia train station. It is 20 min walking distance to where you will be embraced by inevitable touristy crowds. Simply perfect.
Second, please mind size of Heureka. The number of rooms is tiny, and it needs to be booked in advance. I’m here to assist.
Official site Hotel Heureka Other Venetian hotels in this blog Explore other articles about Italy in this blogPlease feel free to contact me at [email protected]. I know quite a bit about Italian hidden gems.
