Val Badia, 35 km long valley in South Tyrol, is a perfect picture of Dolomites dream. I mean, if you close your eyes and try to imagine the most imposing mountain scenery, that would be it. Culturally, this is eclectic mix of Italian, Austrian, and authentically local Ladin. Over 97% of upper valley speak Ladin, an ancient language with Latin roots.
Surrounded by magnificent peaks, Val Badia is never short of impressive views, and the colours change through the seasons from spring flowers and emerald green meadows of summer to earthy reds of fall and regal sparkling whites of winter.
The most famous is the upper part of the valley, Alta Badia, that lays in its southern end, right in the heart of Dolomiti Superski area with direct access to 130 km of slopes and Sellaronda ski circuit. If you are a seasoned skier, you want to be there, trust me.
In my opinion, Alta Badia is a perfect playground for hard core outdoor sport lovers who get pleasure from whole day of ski at winter, hiking or mount biking during the summer, and who don’t really care about fancy shopping, posh restaurants, or fashion party scene. Well, no shortage of parties here. They are just not about showing off – pure fun and happy casual.
The villages are rather small and casual even very cute, with limited number of shops and eating places, and not much to do if you just step out of your hotel except of what you are here for: unlimited outdoor sports. It is not Cortina di Ampezzo, not St Moritz or Courchevel sort of things, but outdoor fun is all yours.
Where to apres-ski in Alta Badia?
Sure enough, there is no ski without apres-ski in Europe, and oh… you are in Italy, hiking or no hiking, you eat and entertain well, no worries about it.
One of the most iconic and exclusive apres-ski spots not just in Alta Badia but in whole Dolomites, is Club Moritzino. Located on the top of Piz La Ila gondola, 2100 m altitude, established in 1966 and named after its 50 years long owner and manager Moritz Craffonara, live legend of Dolomites, the guy who built his dream from scratch.
Just a random fact: fresh shrimps and prawns are delivered to Moritzino daily from Sicily. Impressive, isn’t it? I can confirm that both food and ambience are fantastic at Moritzino, I’ve enjoyed it 3 times, two times at winter, and ones at summer. And oh… What a scenery!
Moritz may be getting older, but he is still present. Good life to live in full!
Adding few pictures from my winter visit to Moritzino few years back.
Another beautiful venue: Alpine Lodge Edelweiss (Corvara area). We call it entertainment, they call it apres-ski, but they get it just right in Dolomites. One of the ski slop huts (well, one of the best) to enjoy hearty food, good music and good company. Scenery helps the ambience, no doubts.
As you expect it, family owned and run. I had a bit of conversation with couple who owns (and serves) Edelweiss – just to say big thank you for a wonderful evening, and oh… they were so sweet and rewarding.
And well…80th disco music (back to Sanremo music festivals and my teen times) never goes wrong. I love how easily younger boys and girls get carried away with this type of music. It is really contagious in such a good way.
Refugio Edelweiss official siteWhere to stay when in Alta Badia?
Let’s start from the best (and most expensive as it happens). If you want it slick and polished, kind of Bvlgari London from outside meets Armani Milano from inside, and if you have a bit of money to spend, Aman Rosa Alpina can be a place.
Between me and you, I liked it better before it went through multi-million renovation to become part of Aman, but many will not share my opinion, and shhh… don’t ever tell it to Hugo Pizzinini, the owner and a friend. The new version of Rosa Alpina by Aman is spectacular. It is just me and my old fashioned taste.
Aman Rosa Alpina is located in San Cassiano, and you need to understand that San Cassiano is not a Courchevel – it is a small picturesque village, only highlight is Aman Rosa Alpina. The highlight is impressive anyway, and the scenery is breathtaking.
You have it all: meticulous service, slick design, spectacular in and out swimming pools, high-end dining, Aman level of every single detail, and the best slops of Dolomites, plus Pazzinini family touch.
Please note that Aman Rosa Alpina is not ski-in/ski-out property. Yet all is arranged super smooth when it comes to ski: shuttle to gondolas, ski rental, ski storage – you will find it perfect. Your only effort is to master the slopes. I’m still a bit nostalgic for pre-Aman Rosa Alpina, but I may be getting old. All in all, this is your Bvlgari meets Armani in Dolomites.
Your benefits if you book Rosa Alpina with me:
- Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability
- Daily breakfast for up to two guests per bedroom, served in the restaurant (already included in property rates)
- $100 USD equivalent Resort or Hotel credit to be utilized during stay (not combinable, not valid on room rate, no cash value if not redeemed in full)
- Early check-in / Late check-out, subject to availability
You want some alternatives? I have it.
Still in San Cassiano, there is another family owned in few generations property, not related to high brands, traditional with good twist to fun and modern: Ciasa Salares.
The first you notice when you get in is a fabulous smell of legno (wood). There is a lot of wood around, and it feels naturally great. Don’t expect it to be too traditional or stuffy Tyrollean – you will love the details which are almost funky but never too much, and the ambience of family home where few generations live in total accord is delicious.
The owner told me that his father wanted to be a medical doctor, but family forced him to be a continuation a hoteliers’ dynasty. While him is a hotelier by heart who never even thought about anything else. I’m with him with all respect and deep bow to doctors around the globe.
Well, speaking about delicious… food and beverage is a special story at Ciasa Salares . Not that you have big chance to not eat well when in Alta Badia, but Ciasa Salares is a particular place. My favourite type of gourmet F&B: zero km, simply perfect. I mean, it is simple. But it is perfect through and through.
But let’s move to another village: Corvara. The biggest and the most vibrant village of Alta Badia. Where to stay? Easy. La Perla.
I found it to be perfect gem. Confess, I was not staying just visiting for the event and sneak site inspection in between of meetings and food indulgence, but I truly loved what I’ve seen and experienced.
Some people are control freaks, while I’m aesthetics freak if you can put it this way. I love interior design, attention to details, points of interest well thought, and I’m physically sick when aesthetics are abandoned. La Perla is very well thought of in every detail, and it is delight to all senses, no doubts.
La Perla is part of Virtuoso consortia, and if you book with me, you enjoy:
- Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability
- Daily breakfast for up to two guests per bedroom, served in the restaurant (already included in property rates)
- $100 USD equivalent Resort or Hotel credit to be utilized during stay (not combinable, not valid on room rate, no cash value if not redeemed in full)
- Early check-in / Late check-out, subject to availability
Last but not least is La Villa village. I was staying at Hotel La Majun for the time of conference, and it was very comfortable stay. At the beginning I had a bit of concern of my balcony overlooking the road, but well, La Villa is all along the road, and I would not call this road super busy. You still have a spectacular view, and occasional cars are just part of the scene.
I wish I took more photos at La Majun because it was lovely, but I was always on the run. Well, it is your 4 stars hotel in Dolomites, but very well taken care of by the owning family. The breakfasts were very good, and one of the apres-conference evenings we had tons of fun dancing with live music in the bar.
La Villa is a small village – just couple of shops and bars, and fantastic scenery. But for outdoor lovers it can be an option without spending little fortune.
Please feel free to contact me at [email protected] with any questions you may have, and to book your perfect itinerary in Dolomites.
Val Badia is your perfect no frills no limits outdoor playground, winter or summer, in absolutely splendid scenery. Apres-ski makes it even more fun.
Enjoy the video!
