Mali (and Veli) Lošinj was in my travel plans for a while, since I met beautiful young lady Iva at one of luxury travel conferences years ago. I knew I will make my way there at some point, but it took quite few years. Well, Lošinj is a very small island, part of not such big country, and it takes few hours drive and ferry to get there from anywhere else, but I always had Iva’s dedicated and profound vision of the place in my mind, and one day I travelled there.
One of the many places in the world where I forever left piece of my heart and silent promise to be back one day, soon or not very soon. Why? The quality. True to the place – very small place, but authentic, and oh… I don’t really like this word which became way too fashion loosing its origins, but well, this place is sustainable in the best meaning of it. Mothers which are fine with their little boys running around and jumping to the sea. Plants from all around the globe which brave captains brought from their escapades and planted in fertile soil to thrive under their wives’ supervision. People who smile from ear to ear when I try to transform my mother language Russian (so easy!) to Croatian or naturally switch to Italian. The smells, the views, and oh the people. Islands are my passion developed through lifetime in travel business. Islands are different from mainland. And always special. And never repeating. One of a kind, truly.
It was a very short visit to very special place (travel advisors’ life is all about “OMD! I want to spend here at least few more months!”), but it was filled with emotion to digest and to share. And with so many little and not so little things to enjoy.
One of the highlights was a visit to local museum. Quite unusual museum dedicated to one statue only.
Museo dell’ Apoxyomenos or Muzej Apoksiomena. I should say that what I’ve seen almost left me speechless, but actually I could not stop chatting with charming Nikola Andrijčić, the keeper, who told me story after story (he happened to be half-Italian, and we happily switched to Italian to share emotion – there is no better language for it). Imagine, the museum and the stories of Nikola amazed me that much that I walked out in shoe covers and only noticed it after half of hour. 🙂
Let’s start from Apoxyomenos itself. As Wiki says, it is an Ancient Greek statue cast in bronze in the 2nd or 1st century BC; it was discovered in 1996 on the bottom of the sea near Croatian island of Lošinj. It represents an athlete – Apoxyomenos (‘the Scraper’) – in the act of scraping sweat and dust from his body with the small curved instrument called a strigil.
Apoxyomenos was found in 1996 by Belgian tourist René Wouters who kept his discovery in secret for two years. Then the story started to develop so beautifully. It was fantastic discovery indeed, but statue was quite damaged by natural factors, the head was separated from the body, and marine organisms covered the surface.
The restoration was an art, and since, and an art again. Speaking with Nikola, I mentioned that I recently visited Opificio delle Pietre Dure, one of the most important restoration laboratories in the world based in Florence, and how it was overwhelmingly amazing. And imagine? The restoration of the statue of Apoxyomenos was done in a collaboration with the Italian Institute Opificio delle Pietre Dure in the city of Florence, led by now-deceased restorer Giuliano Tordi. Also, the first presentation of bronze statue of Apoxyomenos, outside of Croatia, was in Florence.
But that was not only connection between me (somehow) and Apoxyomenos. Nikola told me another story which is truly amazing. Apparently, statue was stocked somewhere for a while before it got to the boat (and then to the sea), and the mouse (yes, this little bastard) found its way inside of the hollow statue and made its nest inside. Mouse was bringing food supply inside, whatever was available, and organic leftovers helped a lot to figure out the history of the statue. Well, it made me recalling jumping mice attack I was forced to fight few years back in my bungalow. I told Nikola the funny story how I discovered jumping mice in my kitchen first time: I left peach cookies on the kitchen table, and at the morning peach was gone and cookie was intact. I blamed my husband, but he was quite surprised. Then we discovered we have someone else around who likes peaches. And well… One of organic artifacts found inside of Apoxyomenos was a peach!
I guess we made good friends with Apoxyomenos. He is a perfection. Well, he has high tech skeleton inside, and lots of face-lifting job done by restoration professionals too, but still hard to believe this masterpiece age. He is so real and alive in every curve of his hand, and face expression, and the smile different from every angle of view. As Nikola said, La Giaconda of Lošinj. No doubts, I would agree. But even more important, we made good friends with Nikola. For me people dedicated to what they do are true gems. The museum of one statue and one historical building. But so much dedication and love. Bravi!
I have access to professional pictures of Apoxyomenos, thanks to Nikola, but I kind of like this one taken via special window (taking pictures in the room where statue is hold, prohibited). He is perfection, isn’t he?
But well… the island had more to offer.
Little organic garden and zoo. Small sustainable family business which probably will not make its owners rich, but I envy them (in a good way). I could only dream of living the way they do – in a mild climate, close proximity to Adriatic sea, surrounded by aromatic herbs, fun animals, and island lifestyle – simple, authentic and true to the place.
Mali Lošinj is actually the name of town. Albeit word “mali” corresponding to “small”, it is the biggest island town in Croatia (well, about 7,500 inhabitants). And oh… It has so much character in it! The same as whole island. I was very surprised to learn that pine trees which look so authentic in Lošinj and which create very special healing condition for lung issues in combination with mild climate and the sea, were not there originally. They were invented by botanist Ambroz Haracic in 19th century, and they are now inevitable part of what Lošinj is – beautiful, healthy, and beautiful again.
But well… Now you should ask where to stay in Lošinj. No surprise, I know the answer: boutique hotel Alhambra. I’m picky about hotels being staying in so many, but this one is simply lovely. Set on the shore of the most picturesque Lošinj bay, sweet, friendly and easy going… Feel free to contact me for reservation, and enjoy added value:
- Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability
- Daily breakfast for up to two guests per bedroom, served in the restaurant (already included in property rates)
- $100 USD equivalent Resort or Hotel credit to be utilized during stay, applicable for wellness treatments or services at the Alhambra Spa as specified only. (not combinable, not valid on room rate, no cash value if not redeemed in full)
- Suite Bookings will also receive complimentary roundtrip private airport transfers
- Early Check-In / Late Check-Out, subject to availability
- Complimentary Wi-Fi
And one more thing: there are also villas adjusted to hotel. I’ve seen lots of luxury villas, but those are stunning. And, well, reasonable. I’ve never seen that much of exquisite Murano glass chandeliers even in Venice.
And here is my last night in Lošinj, courtesy of my Croatian friend Lara Soldičić Vodarić. I was sad to leave but full of emotion and impression, really. I’ll be back.
