Palermo, Sicily… I would suggest this particular moment is perfect to include Palermo (and Sicily in total) in your travel plans. During last decade this tremendous city made big effort to become more tourist-friendly without loosing its unique character – just cleaning, systemizing, restoring, adding few luxury accommodation options and creating some infrastructure (based on what was already there) to amaze and entertain visitors. Yet it is not overpopulated with tourists so far, and it is still a bit shy in a good way. And oh… packed with treasures to be explored.
I’m sad to say that it took “The White Lotus” to put Palermo on the luxury tourism map. Well, probably there is nothing too sad about it, or at least it is kind of normal for modern world that popular TV series make bigger impact to travel radar than over 2,700 years of most dramatic history of the place, but here we go: Palermo is becoming trendy destination these days.
Normally I’m not fan of bigger cities, but I happily make exception for truly gorgeous examples, and Palermo is the one, no doubts. Few highlights of my rather short but emotional exploration are below.
Massimo Opera House, one of a kind. Even for such musically ignorant cow as myself, this was a special place to visit. I may fall asleep through the most amazing opera performance (ashamed to say, it happened with me before), but with my architectural background, I never fail to appreciate the visual beauty, and the beauty of the Massimo Opera House is tremendous and worth to be seen.
Fontana Pretoria. Imagine, that this fountain was originally built in Florence in 1544, but then it was sold, transferred and reassembled in Palermo in 1574. Between 18th century and 19th century, the fountain was considered a sort of depiction of the corrupt municipality of Palermo. For this reason and because of the blunt nudity of the statues, the square became known as “Piazza della Vergogna” (Square of Shame). In 1998 the restoration of the fountain started. It was completed in 2003, and well, it is what it is: candid, bold, and very Palermo.
Palermo Cathedral, the same as the city itself, is an eclectic mix of different styles reflecting its long and extraordinary history. It was built by Normans in 1885 on the place where Byzantine basilica, later turned to mosque by arabs, stood ones. In 14-15 centuries, it got some Early Renaissance additions, in 18-19 centuries Neoclassical period made significant changes to its appearance. Its interior also went through many alternations and absorbed tastes, preferences and artifacts from different times and epochs.
What fascinated me at Cathedral, was an earlier type of solar observatory, created in 1801 by Sicilian astronomer Giuseppe Piazzi. The device is quite simple: little hole in one of the minor domes projects an image of the sun onto the floor of cathedral. Bronze line, la meridiana, runs on the floor precisely N/S. At solar noon, the sun image passes through this line. At different times of the year the passage occurs at different point of the line. The ends of the line mark the positions at the summer and winter solstices while signs of the zodiac show various dates throughout the year. Interesting, isn’t it?
… I should admit that Palermo doesn’t pretend being a perfect postcard, and it has corners which are not coiffured to look pretty. I would say, word “pretty” doesn’t apply here at all. For me Palermo is rather dramatic, stunning, daringly mixed of different cultures which were raising, flourishing, declining, growing into each other through 2,700 years of history. Worth to see, to admire, to be smashed by its beauty, sometimes bold, almost barbarian, sometimes exquisite.
Yet the best Palermo has to offer, besides incredible history, heritage, and art, and food – its people. Extraordinary in their dedication to where they are from, honest to their origins, witty, humorous, easy to smile.
I will follow with some stories about Palermo people. Stay tuned and visit Palermo. I’m here to assist with navigation and all arrangements you may need.
