Don’t take me wrong, I love Taormina with its luxury hotels, tremendous scenery, picturesque landscape, narrow streets dotted with boutique shops and characteristic restaurants. But lets speak about Sicily. The one where legendary “Inspector Montalbano” serial was filmed, where price for dinner is still human, and the streets are still populated with characters from 70th to put smile on your face and feel your heart with emotion. Well, I would call in authentic. Because it truly still is.
The place to stay? Not many, and you should except they are nothing to do with Four Seasons or Belmond. This is authentic luxury. Relais & Chateaux Locanda Don Serafino will make you feel part of the scene without sacrificing modern comfort. Well, probably a bit when you climb weird staircase or bend over low ceiling. For me, not a big deal when you have experience of living like local in former private home in Ragusa Ibla – historical centre of Ragusa, one of the most picture-worthy towns I’ve ever visited.
When I just arrived, my taxi driver suggested to drop my luggage in the hotel and drive me to Ragusa Superiore, the newer part of the city up the hill from where I can walk down to Ragusa Ibla enjoying the scenery. This was a brilliant idea. When I walked down (after million of pictures taken on the way and some occasional shopping), I asked sweet old lady sitting on the terrace how to get to my hotel. First, she suggesting me to climb the stairs to her terrace for the view. Sure enough I did, and the view was spectacular, but even better was the place of this lady up there where she makes lace traditional way, tiny workshop filled with old photos and examples of antique lace. Of corse I bought some as a gratitude for the view and lovely conversation. Then I ask again how to get to my hotel, and she was laughing – hotel was exactly 10 m up the street. Do I still need to explain you why I love Italy so much? 🙂
I wish I had more time to have opportunity visiting Punta Secca, the seaside village where the home of Inspector Montalbano still exists. I was told it can be rented for a stay. But my time in Ragusa was limited, and I spent it wondering the streets, chatting with vendors, and enjoying abnormally this lost in time beauty.
The best arancini I ever had were in simple eatery of Ragusa. (Arancini is kind of street food in Southern Italy, rice ball with different staffing – oh… it can’t be explained that simple because it is rather poem of rice ball with staffing). I ordered too much (had no idea how big they can be – the one was enough to make me literally full, two others went with me to Rome in the box). There is historical fight between Western and Eastern Sicily if it is arancino (male) or arancina (female). In Palermo you should ask for arancina (and it should be round like orange), in Catania for arancino (and it should be pointed like Etna volcano). In Ragusa they will accept both options with smile.
Contact me for more and to book Locanda Don Serafino. And watch Inspector Montalbano movie if you didn’t yet.
